Photo Now Public

Being the third in a series of every day posts to mark Être ou Avoir’s first year.

This was not the planned post for today, but it does fit into the category of photography – something I wanted to blog about this week. Nowpublic.com is a participatory news gathering site, where members can contribute articles about local, national or international news. Like mainstream media it covers politics, late-breaking events, sports, crime, entertainment, and other topics.

Today, I was asked by one contributor if he could use one of my photos from Korea in his piece. He found the image on my flickr page. The article is on South Korea resuming rice shipments to North Korea, and mentions the North’s recent nuclear tests, an event I was on the peninsula for. To complement his story, Ryan Nadel, requested a number of images of rice fields in Korea, including one of mine. I allowed its use and you can see it on the article’s photo page. The original image first appeared on this blog through my flickr account, and can still be found on flickr. A close-up picture of rice grains, perhaps the best photograph I have yet taken, can also be found on flickr by clicking here.

This connectedness; average people sharing stories, images, articles, news, and opinions is fascinating. It is also another example of Time’s person of the year at work – as noted earlier on this blog. Plus, it gave me an opportunity to include a post tagged with Korea in the anniversary series.

Closure on Korea

After about 26 hours of travel I wound up back in Canada on Wednesday, my adventures in Korea having come to an end. As mentioned in previous posts, there were many highlights of my time in Northeast Asia, including food, hiking, taxi rides, dong-dong-ju, drums, weather, temples, and Hangeul, just to name a few. However, it was the people of Korea that made the experience completely fantastic.

In September I wrote about my early impressions, and how Koreans were always keen that I should be left with positive feelings regarding their country. This continued right up until my final day in Korea. During December I was often asked where I had visited, what I had enjoyed and what my favourite parts of Korea were. I told of the sights I had seen and the unique experiences I had, but I always emphasized that my fondest memory of Korea, and what made the adventure so worthwhile, was how I was treated by the people.

There were some I got to know well, like some students, and there were others I only had a passing connection with, like the family that ran the local corner store. Yet they all went out of their way to be helpful, kind, and accommodating. Two groups in particular will always represent the people of Korea for me. Firstly, the Daejeon Gold Eagles Ice Hockey Club Team. I always had a smile on when I was around these guys. Their welcoming attitudes, humour and amazing work ethic never made me think twice about playing hockey in a city an hour away at midnight. Each ice time, game or practice, was an exercise in joy.

Secondly, the core group of students who attended our English Clubs were quite simply the best part of Korea. I got to meet hundreds of students at CNUE, probably got to know about 30-40 a little bit, and then there were about a dozen or so students that I will always remember. It all started back in August with some clubs to help students improve their English. It finished in December by saying goodbye to a group of students that I sincerely hope I will meet again. The core group of students that came to the clubs were the best ambassadors any country could hope for. They genuinely cared about my Korean experience. They took us to special places in Korea, taught us about Korean culture, and shared their hopes, dreams and fears for the future of Korea. They opened their homes, went out of their way to help me get settled, cared about my welfare, and were genuinely interested in learning about me and Canadian culture. I hope we will meet again because they were much more than just students. They became friends, and were without a doubt, the best part of Korea.

Korea is an amazing nation. Its progression in the last half century is mind boggling, and the credit goes to the Korean people. There is still a lot ahead for the peninsula. In just my short time some key issues came to the forefront: nuclear testing, free trade with the US, cutbacks in Education. However, I believe the work ethic, hospitality and genuine caring of the Korean people will see Korea through the challenges ahead.

I will miss the mountains. I will miss the colours. I will miss learning about the culture. I will miss the people.

Thanks must go to Selma, Mark and Cam. While they are not Koreans they certainly showcased Korean hospitality and were incredibly inclusive. Thanks to Colette for being a great colleague. The biggest thanks to those I have already described: the core group of students that attended the English Clubs regularly. Korea would have been a completely different experience without them. It would have been good, but they made it great.

Fond Foods

As my time in Korea has now finished I will soon devote an entire entry to the conclusion. However, just before I do, the food in Korea deserves an entry all itself. I will miss Korean food and the style of eating. No doubt when I first go out to eat in Canada I will long for numerous side dishes and being able to steal food from across the table. It just won’t be as fun not cooking your food right at the table, or not using metal chopsticks. It will also be a lot less fun paying quite a bit more to eat out.

I was impressed with the variety of Korean food, and how most meals were very well balanced. Vegetables and dark greens seemed a mainstay of almost every meal. I never grew tired of rice, and took to kimchi more than I had expected. With so many local restaurants, and so many special ways of preparing dishes the tastes were never boring. Up until my last night in Korea I was able to continually try new things, and yet there was still so much I did not get to sample. Patrons were always welcoming and I was never disappointed with service.

Of course, no talk of eating in Korea should be left without mention of dong-dong-ju. On my final Friday in Korea a few of us went out for the infamous drink at a restaurant featuring oysters. Like most Korean restaurants they specialized in one particular ingredient (or even on particular dish) and make incredible meals surrounding it. The oyster pancakes that night were exceptional. But the dong-dong-ju of this establishment was even more exceptional. It was both tasty and refreshing, and of course fueled the good times.

Now that I have returned to Canada I will always be on the lookout for good Korean food. My standards will be high however, as the culinary experiences of living in Korea have set the bar so.

Little Extras

As my time in Korea quickly comes to a close I look back on the experiences that made it a success. The most important ingredient in making this adventure a great one has been the people I have met, but there will be more to say on that later.

One of the everyday things that has made Korea unique to me, and that I am going to miss is the Little Extras. When I go to the market, the woman at the fruit stall will throw a couple more oranges into my bag after I’ve paid. When I go to the grocery, store the clerk will ignore all others waiting in line to run back and get me something with a better expiration date. When I eat out, the patron will come along with an extra dish, dessert, coffee, pop or something else – on the house. When I eat in the cafeteria, the cooks always make sure I get an extra dessert. When I’m in a car visiting a gas station, everyone is offered coffee, tea or a little prize.

All of these little gestures are delivered with a big smile and an honest appreciation of your business. The other night when we had a wrap-up party with students the patron – a wonderful older woman – was working alone to cook and serve for us and she made up two extra dishes. I’ll miss these little gestures, these honest signs that people care about your enjoyment while at their establishments.

Also:
-I racked up big scores at Norebang the other night – lots of fun.
-That’s a karaoke room for the uninitiatied
-Some good final skates with the Daejeon Gold Eagles Ice Hockey Club Team – including a victory over Suwon.
-I’m no Gumdo master, but it was fun.
-Again, congratulations to you! (see previous post)

Striking Entertainment

The five week student strike at CNUE will come to an end tomorrow. For more than a month now it has been a challenge to fill the time. A completely unbalanced schedule has meant a lot of time to explore, eat Korean food, read, and watch films. Through no conscious plan, two distinctive parts of my entertainment have been Canadian literature and Korean films. Fortunately, the works I have read and watched have been good, and I recommend them, particularly The King and the Clown.

I have been quite impressed with Korean cinema and will be sure to explore it more, during my remaining time in Korea, and when I return home. While certain instances in the past have put me off of Canadian literature, the recent offerings I have digested are beginning to turn the tide. Apparently it only takes a spell in Korea to renew interest for Canadian writing.

Also:
-Details of recent books and films are here.
-What’s not to like about candles on all celebratory cakes – not just birthday ones?
-Yes, it’s cold.

Solitude in 서울 (Seoul)

This past Saturday I set out for a third appearance in Seoul, and experienced a series of contrasts worth noting. By any standard Seoul is a gigantic city. The city proper has over 10 million residents, while some generous classifications rank the greater metropolitan area of Seoul as the second largest in the world at 23.5 million people. While I certainly enjoy living in an area of Korea much smaller in population, I am also a big fan of world class cities. This exploration of a worldly metropolis was of particular note because of the balance between crushing hordes and quiet isolation.

The fabulously sunny day began with a stop by the Han River. A decent major city needs a body of water and the Han serves for Seoul. While over a kilometer in width in some places it was quite calm Saturday. No doubt fully congested on summer days, I was happily left alone to daydream along the bank’s path. Then, a typically tightly packed sea of bodies otherwise known as the subway ride to my next stop: the World Heritage palace Changdeokgung 창덕궁. The autumn colours surrounding this palace defy description, and are well removed from being adequately captured by my photography abilities. Beyond amazing, they were captivating. So much so, I became separated from my tour group; a good thing. I was able to take in the “Secret Garden” alone. On the edge of a 400 year old pond, surrounded by reds, oranges, and yellows, encased within a city of millions and not a sound to be heard.

The rest of the afternoon was spent purposely trying to get lost in some very quiet neighbourhoods before heading to the overbearing bustle of Insadong. This was capped by the more than overbearing crush of an early evening return to Namdaemun. While Namdaemun is the complete opposite of a secret garden in an empty palace it is great fun to jostle intimately with thousands of bargain hunting comrades – for a short while. The reward for doing my best to search out decent wares and haggle over prices was an early evening visit to Korean National treasure #1. I had seen the great south gate before, but this was the first time to see it lit up. I finished the day by lounging peacefully alone and admiring the massive gate that once marked the southern entrance, but now lies near the centre of the burgeoning city. The craziness of the markets was well balanced by finding the hidden gems of solitude within Seoul.

Note worthy:
-no taxi ride home this time, had to take the bus.
-I’ll put new pics up in the next few days.
-only three weeks remain on this adventure: yikes!!
-juggling performance went well, but think I’ll retain my amateur status.
-apparently no one else has any memorable taxi rides

Taxi

A visit to Seoul on Saturday culminated with a personal record. Prior to coming to Korea I had been in a taxi – maybe – ten times. However, their affordability and frequency often make them a logical choice for getting around town in Korea. Drivers are also not averse to taking you a little further than “around town”. A rather flurried series of relatively small events on Saturday led to a record taxi ride for most of the passengers: Seoul to Cheongju – 140km and two hours. Likely we reached some sustained land speeds of record as well.

Anyone else have record rides?

A.O.B.
-Bit of labour unrest in Korea. Some articles highlight certain incidents others claim it was a fizzle… hmmm?
-Student protest/strike/boycott continues. Thus, I am beginning a career as a professional juggler.

Ko-Photog

Photography has played a prominent role during my time in Korea. While I have long been a strong photog admirer and always enjoy taking pics, my own skills are rather rudimentary. Korea has been my first adventure to be documented digitally. I will always be a fan of film, but the jump to zeroes and ones has given my relationship with the camera new life and allowed me to experiment in new ways. I know I will look back fondly on the plethora of Korean experiences: mountains, beaches, arts, culture, food and new friends. However, this adventure will also stand out for its photographic rediscoveries. I’ve been able to find again:
-the little joy of searching out a different angle,
-the quirkiness in pondering how much of a beautiful scene my primitive skills can actually capture,
-the fun of imagining how a group of shots might flow to music.

However, my sharp increase in photo count has also renewed a balance issue. Is there a point where one stops being in the moment and becomes separated into trying to have a picture of the moment – without actually experiencing it? On occasion I have felt this question begin to nag. Sometimes what my own eye is capturing, the sounds I am hearing, the smells being taken in and the feeling of the moment can only be captured and held together by me – not the camera. Thus, sometimes I put the camera away. The recollection of some moments, scenes, sights or experiences will only be found in my memory and stories, and not in any photo.

Overall, photography has been a wonderful memory of Korea so far. I see it continuing for the duration, and in adventures to come.

Also:
-Visit here for a small selection of the photos I’ve taken.
-Big thanks go to A & A who provided valuable advice on purchasing a new camera. I feel fortunate, firstly to know such great people, and also to know them as amazing photographers. I hope that one day, I can pick up even a fraction of their skills. Check out one of them here.

Hanging in Hangeul 한글

Language plays a prominent role in adventures. On this adventure I have tried to learn some Korean, and noticed some progress. However, I feel caught in a stalled situation at times. On campus, my job is to speak, teach and interact in English. Socially most interactions are in English as well. During my previous experience living abroad this was not the case. I was forced to leave English behind at all times, and my fluency in the new language grew quickly. The comparison often leaves me frustrated with my Korean.

I have found 한글 (Hangeul) a wonderfully logical script to read. Yet this exposes my shortcomings at times. Walking around town, looking at ingredients, or scanning a newspaper I am able to read and create all the sounds with a decent level of proficiency. I don’t easily get lost because I can always read signs. However, I will read a poster or notice with near perfect pronunciation, but if it’s missing any of my key vocabulary words I won’t have a clue what says. When teaching I may ask students to orally give me a Korean word – attempting to expand my vocabulary – and I will correctly write it in Hangeul without assistance. This often elicits claps and cheers for my ability, but I quickly use the occasion as a teachable moment on my shortcomings and their strengths. I explain they are witnessing the near full extent of my Korean: my understanding of pronunciation and writing Hangeul. Throw in my ability to say “maekchu juseyo” or “dong-dong-ju juseyo” and I’m almost expended. I then explain that their fluency in English is much more developed. I try to encourage them to express themselves more, ask more questions and not be as shy as many appear to be initially. Generally, the “maekchu juseyo” line lightens the mood and students will talk more.

Experiences have reinforced the power of language to connect people by more than words. Students, shopkeepers and Koreans in general are so very kind to begin with, then attempting Korean brings on excitement, encouragement and makes the encounter even more positive. Also, it has been a pleasure to get to know those who have been so patient and helpful in teaching me. Unfortunately, I have not been under the same stress to learn and express myself as when I first learned a second language. With approximately two months left I will have to keep hitting the books, practice the phrases and push myself not to rest on the crutch of English.

Anglais may be great at getting one by, but it alone can only get one so far in connecting with a different culture.

By the way:
-The possibility of a student strike is making things interesting.
-We had a great time carving pumpkins.
-2007 Tour de France route announced.

Dong-dong-ju

After a hard day of hiking, what is one to do…
but drink Dong-dong-ju!

This particular bowl of Dong-dong-ju was average , but it held
us over until we reached the next outdoor restaurant which
supplied quantities of the quality that makes this far and away
Korea’s best drink.

Take note:
-New photos posted on the left.
-Let me know if you are up to anything cool for Halloween. We are going to try celebrating this strange North American custom and if you don’t mind sending photos or stories we’ll put them to use.